
Temple Town and Tohaku Hasegawa, the Gifted Painter
Nanao has many temples, as the warlord Maeda strategically built many temples to defend his castle 400 years ago, after Noto-Hatakeyama family lost its power. This is the “Yama-no-dera Jiingun” (literally translated, temple group in the mountain) located west of the city. Nowadays, 16 temples are opened to public for sightseeing, and many history fans crowd the area in its best season in spring and autumn. Among these, there are the temples associated with the gifted painter, Tohaku Hasegawa.
“Choju-ji” and”Honen-ji” are two best temples to visit during the walk. These are places where Tohaku spent his juvenile days and a highlight of the historic walk, following the footsteps of young Tohaku during his apprenticeship as a painter. Choju-ji is a temple where Hasegaswa family belongs, the family Tohaku was adopted, and Honen-ji is the temple for Okumura family where he was born. “Choju-ji” is a Nichiren Sect temple founded in 1457. Here, the picture “Shakanehanzu (Buddha Nirvana)” is stored, which is said to be drawn by Tohaku’s grandfather, Mubun Hasegawa. This art piece was drawn around the time when Tohaku became familiar with Buddhist paintings and started to bloom his talent as a painter, lead by his father in law. Hasegawa family was involved in dyeing, and it is said that Tohaku developed his keen sense of colors during this time, acquiring to draw both black-ink paintings to gorgeous world of paintings.
The other family temple “Honen-ji” is a temple with a touch of tranquility with the main gate after going up the gradual stairs. The calmness of the temple and the remaining snow comforts the heart of the visitors. Established in 1464, this temple preserves the precious treasure “Nichiren Shonin Zazou” which was colored by Tohaku when he was 26 years old. This sitting statue, a rare work for Tohaku being a painter, has lost its color over long years, but we can still feel the bright color of that time. Though the statue is covered with cotton during the cold winter, this is a great spot to visit as all visitors may view the statue for free.
Thirty minutes drive from the city will take you to the remains of Nanao Castle. Going up the mountain from the re and climbing up the observatory deck, you can have a whole view of the city and Nanao Bay. From the time of the rule of Noto-Hatakeyama family to the time when the landlord changed to Toshiie Maeda, together with the temples, a castle town has been developed along the bay as long as 4km. In the past, pine trees were planted by the bay. It made me wonder if young Tohaku had seen the same scenery. Walking in Nanao makes me feel as if the mystery of all the masterpiece are revealed.
If you are interested in Tohaku, I would recommend you to visit “Ishikawa Nanao Art Museum.” You will be familiar to the life of Tohaku Hasegawa by maing a tour around the museum watching Hi-vision videos and artpiece. Every year, the museum holds an exhibition of Tohaku’s work in series, so you can also fit this into your agenda (held from 25 April to 31 May in 2010).

Noto is also full of festivals, with over one hundred throughlut the year. One of the largest festival in Nanao is “Seihakusai” (3-5 May), a parade in the middle of the town pulling a large float weighing 20 tons with a huge 2m wheel. Being the 400th anniversary of Tohaku’s death, this year the float will be decorated under the theme of Tohaku.
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