TokyoTomo Travel Guide

Kanazawa, Home to the Gorgeous Arts and Crafts with Grace and Class – From the turbulent era ruled by Nobunaga Oda and Hideyoshi Toyotomi to Edo period ruled by Tokugawa Shogunate, Maeda Family of Kaga Clan continued to flourish for 14 generations. Though Maeda family was not a hereditary vassal of the Tokugawa family, Kaga clan yielded one million koku of rice and ruled Kanazawa and almost all the area in Ishikawa Prefecture for 300 years.

Nowadays, Kanazawa Castle, headquarter of Maeda family, has been visited by many tourists as historic park together with Kenrokuen Garden. Restored in 2001, “Hishi yagura,” “Gojukken Nagaya” and “Hashizumemon tsuzuki yagura” is illuminated at night and are now the must-visit spots together with “Ishikawa mon.” It was not aristocrats nor merchants that led the culture of this area; being one of the largest castle town in Japan, Kanazawa became the home to a gorgeous and flamboyant samurai culture and traditional arts and crafts that colored the life of a samurai.

Time-honored Kutani yaki and lacquer ware are typical representative of traditional arts and crafts of Kanazawa and Ishikawa Prefecture, but the area produces more than that. Cultivated through active cultural encouragement policy by Kaga clan, various kinds of arts and crafts are in place, such as Kaga Yuzen dying, Kanazawa gold/silver leaf, Kaga embroidery, Kanazawa Buddhist altars, Kaga paper lantern and Kaga Ivory. Based on Japanese chivalry, these versatile traditional crafts are all classy and elegant. Here, you can see the origin of the world-class culture of Japan.

Behind the development of these industrial arts in Kaga clan in Kanazawa, there was a struggling effort made by Maeda family to escape from the vigilant eyes of the Shogunate by showing them that the clan focuses on nurturing cultures rather than its force. On top of that, the long peaceful Edo period made it possible to lift up the samurai culture to a splendor.

“Kaga Mizuhiki”

Apart from the regular ceramics and weavings, mizuhiki is a rare kind of craft you can find. In Japan, when we want to send someone a present, we have the custom to wrap it in a paper, attach a noshi (ceremonial paper) and tie a special cord called mizuhiki, in order to show our gratitude or respect. In the days of Tokugawa Shogunate, it became popular among samurais to send gifts, which lead to the development of the beautiful mizuhiki decoration that has been handed down as a traditional art. In short, mizuhiki is craftwork that assume the shape of the expressions of gratitude in Japan. From the original flat form, this accessible craftwork later developed into a three dimensional mizuhiki-zaiku in Taisho era, and was raised up to an art piece as “Kaga Mizuhiki.”

The originator of Kaga Mizuhiki is “Tsuda-ryu Mizuhiki,” a style created by the founder Sokichi Tsuda in Meiji era that succeeded in creating a unique world of art through expressing good luck symbols such as cranes, turtles, pine, bamboo and plum in its distinctive designs. “Tsuda Mizuhiki Orikata,” the specialized shop of betrothal gifts in Kanazawa, is the only place in Japan where they skillfully make the mizuhiki works using the colorful mizuhiki made of cords wrapped in thin Japanese paper.

Other than the mizuhiki on congratulatory gift wrappers and betrothal gift ornaments, the shop exhibits artistic mizuhiki works such as those in the shape of unique dolls or Oriental Zodiacs. It is worthwhile seeing the craftsmanship of briskly tying up mizuhiki right on the spot as soon as they receive orders.

“Kanazawa Gold/Silver Leaf”

Another noteworthy traditional culture original to Kanazawa is “Kanazawa gold/silver leaf.” Gold leaf still has a short history as an industry, but it traces its roots to Azuchi Momoyama period (mid to late sixteenth century). In Meiji period, not only did the industry flourished having the history of being the castle town of Kaga clan, but it rapidly developed by Kanazawa having suitable climate for making gold leaves, high techniques, and good quality water. Nowadays, gold leaf have evolved into a gorgeous craftwork that Kanazawa boasts to be No. 1 in Japan in both techniques and production volume. Gold leaf artisans are a part of the indigenous industry representing Kanazawa; now, more than 99% of gold leaves and 100% of silver and brass leaves are made in Kanazawa.

The gold leaves used for lacquer ware and buddhist altars are those gold alloy beaten into extremely thin sheets up to a millionth of 1-2 mm which is too thin to be handled with a finger that you can even see through to the other side. Using its non-oxidizing and colorfast characteristics, silver and gold leaves are used on various arts and crafts including buddhist altars and ornaments, folding screens, and lacquer wares. These days, it is also used in a new way, for edible purposes, cosmetics and interior accessories.

Face blotting paper is also famous as a byproduct of gold leaves. The paper used in the in ingot beating process has been diverted to be used as blotting paper as it absorbed sebum. Being used for more than a decade, this hakuuchi paper (gold beating paper) is also known as a luxury item “Furuya-gami.” Also, many gold leaf shops are open to visitors to experience gold leaf pastings.

Discovering the Expert’s Techniques in the Sanctuary of Woodturning

Located in the southeast end of Ishikawa Prefecture, Kaga City is used to be a 100 thousand-koku producing castletown and a branch clan of Kaga-hyakumangoku castletown, Kanazawa. Kaga City is a town with onsen full of nature and traditional cultures though it is only 30 minutes away from Kanazawa. Yamanaka Onsen, in the mountainside of the city, is known for its lacquer ware as well as being the cradle of the pottery, Kutani-yaki. Remains of Ko-kutani kilns are seen in the upper stream of Taiseiji River that flows into the onsen area.

“Yamanaka Lacquer Ware”

The history of Yamanaka lacquer ware dates back to the late sixteenth century around Azuchi-momoyama period when they started to make lacquer wares in Yamanaka for the visitors to onsen. Then, in Edo period, high-leveled craft such as “painting” and “maki-e (gold or silver lacquer)” was introduced, which raised the lacquer ware to an industrial level.

There are four processes when making lacquer ware; making the wood base, priming, coating and lacquer painting, but it takes seven to eight years to acquire each of these skills. The characteristics of Yamanaka lacquer ware is the art of “woodturning.” Artisans turn the lathe and carve out the wood so thin that the carved wood almost looks transparent. Yamanaka lacquer ware is unique in that it has a process of continue applying and wiping off raw lacquer to show off the beauty of the grain and the high technique of the woodturning.

Pick up the finished product, and you will know that it is surprisingly light in weight. It is astonishing that the feudal lords used such delicate and expensive wooden lacquer ware for their daily use. However, after Yamanaka lacquer ware grew popular nationwide, Yamanaka started to produce synthetic resin lacquer ware in addition to those made out of plain wood. In “Rokuro no sato Kogei no Yakata” in Yamanaka Onsen, tourists can also experience the art of lacquer guided by skilled craftsmen (reservation required). By actually experiencing the traditional crafts, I am sure you will feel more familiar to the world of Japanese artisans.

Source: Travel Vision

Travel Vision Inc. provides information on the travel industry in Japan via "Daily Travel Vision", a Japanese-language e-mail newsletter, and the "Travel Vision" website. There are nearly 110,000 people working in the Japanese travel industry, and Travel Vision is proud to be bringing travel news to more than 30,000 people through Daily Travel Vision.

Nowadays, comic and animation is a culture Japan boast to the world, attracting attention from youngsters from all over the world. “Comic market” held in Tokyo Big Sight in Ariake is the fair for those comic fanatics.

Comic market, a.k.a. “Comiket” has been held since 1975 as an exhibition and sales of doujinshi (fanzine) comics, novels, music and game softwares. Now the event is held twice a year in summer and winter, becoming one of the largest in this type of events. This summer, “Comic Market 78” was held for three days during the hot Bon holiday break in August with exhibitors of 35,000 groups and related companies. Being admission free, more than 560 thousand fans visited the event.

The majority of the participating groups were doujinshi related to TV animation and “Moe-kei” gal comics that reminds you of maid cafe in Akihabara popular among those young otaku (nerdy) boys in their 10s and 20s. Many of the characters of the comics look alike if you are not a big fan of them, but that is not the case for comic lovers. Especially, there were long queues in front of the booth of major publishers with popular writers, as they were providing limited edition items.

The comic market has a wide consumer base, and there are quite a lot of female followers as well. Among the 500 thousand visitors there are devotees of various genres, including fans of games, idols, and cosplay. Other than the exhibition and selling of doujinshi, they interact with each other through exhibiting, selling and distributing their own comics, costumes and accessories.

This year, the schedule of the fair changed daily; the first day was for doujinshi groups of comics, anime, games, science fictions and idols, the second day was for popular boy’s comics among women, and the third day was for groups related to items favored by men such as railways and military goods. Especially for those participants who are in to things in a minor genre, comic market is a prime opportunity to show off their works, get other’s works, and to interact with each other. While the participants and visitors are in a seller-buyer relationship, they are also in an equal position. It is also a great opportunity for the exhibitors to seek minor works that are uncommon in the market and find new pleasures. This is the very event where the creators of modern Japanese subcultures gather all at once.

However, you have to be well prepared to find specific groups of your interest, as there are 35,000 groups gathered in the huge Tokyo Big Sight. Most of the groups are exhibiting in a small space equivalent to the size of a conference table, and there are no map in the venue. For that purpose, “Comic Market Catalogue” is also prepared for the purpose of introducing the participating groups and the layout. No confusion is seen in the fair as most of the visitors purchase and check this catalogue beforehand.

Visitors are also there to enjoy watching cosplays; all kinds of cosplayers flock to the cosplay square set up in the venue, presenting themselves to the visitors by dressing-up as their favorite anime characters. Each cosplayers satisfy themselves with paying a participation fee and get into the central character in their original hand-made costumes.

There were cosplayers dressed as transformation robots, sexy rosebud girls, and even in hilarious characters. Cosplayers don’t seem to care whether they look like the characters. Instead, the take pictures of each other and enjoy cosplay itself. This big event in Japan will be held again in Tokyo Big Sight in the end of the year.

Source: Travel Vision

Travel Vision Inc. provides information on the travel industry in Japan via "Daily Travel Vision", a Japanese-language e-mail newsletter, and the "Travel Vision" website. There are nearly 110,000 people working in the Japanese travel industry, and Travel Vision is proud to be bringing travel news to more than 30,000 people through Daily Travel Vision.

Blue sea, blue sky and white clouds―summer in Okinawa is a mecca or marine sports, but the southern island has more to offer. Stroll around the town, and you will bump into shiisa (lion shaped ornament); on top of a red roof tile, gate pillars of houses, roof top of buildings, and even behind the alley. Shiisa is the guardian deity of Ryukyu and a charm to bring in good luck. Okinawa is a wonderland filled with divine creatures.

Yonabaru, a Town in Ryukyu Surrounded by Shiisa

Yonabaru-cho is a town in the southern part of the east coast situated south from Naha, Okinawa. The correct name is Yonabaru, though many Japanese tend to read it wrongly from its Chinese characters. The small town with the population of 15 thousand is only 30 minutes from the sightseeing spot “Shuri Castle,” and is a distinguished producer of roof tiles that handled the restoration of red roof tiles of the palace since old times. The history and tradition has been handed down until today, and the red roof tiles called Ryukyu-gawara is mostly produced here in Yonabaru. Walking around the town, Shiisas will catch your sight here and there together with these red roof tiles. Shiisa is a word for lion in Okinawa dialect, which is said to come from China in 13 to 15 century. Though this guardian deity has faded with time in the mainland, it evolved in an original way in Okinawa as a popular charm against bad luck, remaining to be in people’s daily lives.

Many old statue of lions, the ancestor of Shiisa, still exist particularly around Shuri Castle. Historically, the stone Shiisa in the villages are older than that on top of the roof, which can be seen every corner in Yonabaru area. Shiisa was originally a single ornament; influenced by Komainu (shrine dog) in mainland Japan, many Shiisas come in a pair of male and female. Not long ago, Shiisas started to be put above the roof, but it was not until Meiji period when commoners built houses with roof tiles.

There are no special rules in making Shiisa, and you will get to see Shiisas sitting everywhere in Okinawa, let it be on the roof, walls, eaves or gate pillars. Many of them are red unglazed Shiisas like Ryukyu-gawara, but the design and size vary, from those creative white lime Shiisas produced by tile craftsman to porcelain Shiisas made in potteries, and even those artistic ones in bronze. Nowadays, Shiisas have been developed in various kinds of types. Once you are caught in this unique and divine guardian with a lot of expressions, finding Shiisas may be one of your motivation and joy to come back to Okinawa.

The Spirit of Japan Nurtured in the Nature of Yonabaru

Yonabaru is also famous for “Yonabaru O-tsunahiki” held on the first Sunday of August every year. In the old days, there were over 400 tsunahiki (tug-of-war) in Okinawa, and nowadays there are still 200 of them handed down as Okinawa’s traditional cultural events. “Yonabaru no O-tsunahiki” is one of the three major tug-of-war in Okinawa, together with “Naha no O-tsunahiki” and “Itoman no O-tsunahiki.” Interestingly, the chinese characters used for “tsunahiki” varies though all of them are about the same tug-of-war.

As festivals become more and more superficial, Yonabaru no O-tsunahiki, going on for more than 400 years, is a precious “live festival” cherished by three generations of the residents. This started in the time of Ryukyu as a ritual to pray for rich harvest, celebrating the harvest by combining two ropes in east and west side and telling the fortune of the harvest based on the wins and loses. It is said that you will gain perfect health and be gifted with children if you participate in this festival. Around this time of the year, people come back to their hometowns and talk about the tug-of-war in their neighborhood, house and in the town.

Each household makes a part of the rope, and on the day before the event, each community finishes their giant rope by combine each houses’ ropes. The tranquil town becomes vibrant as people start making the giant rope on the eve of the festival, and participants and spectators crowd the town on the very day of the event. People parade into the venue of with the giant rope, 90 meter long and 5 ton in weight, with a spectacular view that resembles a divine dragon; a unique sight that cannot be seen anywhere but here. Every year, more than 15 thousand people visit Yonabaru for the O-tsunahiki. These days, participants from other community or prefectures are on the increase, who are attracted from the thrill of the festival. Summer in Yonabaru is sure to be even more hot.

Source: Travel Vision

Travel Vision Inc. provides information on the travel industry in Japan via "Daily Travel Vision", a Japanese-language e-mail newsletter, and the "Travel Vision" website. There are nearly 110,000 people working in the Japanese travel industry, and Travel Vision is proud to be bringing travel news to more than 30,000 people through Daily Travel Vision.