
Kanazawa, Home to the Gorgeous Arts and Crafts with Grace and Class – From the turbulent era ruled by Nobunaga Oda and Hideyoshi Toyotomi to Edo period ruled by Tokugawa Shogunate, Maeda Family of Kaga Clan continued to flourish for 14 generations. Though Maeda family was not a hereditary vassal of the Tokugawa family, Kaga clan yielded one million koku of rice and ruled Kanazawa and almost all the area in Ishikawa Prefecture for 300 years.
Nowadays, Kanazawa Castle, headquarter of Maeda family, has been visited by many tourists as historic park together with Kenrokuen Garden. Restored in 2001, “Hishi yagura,” “Gojukken Nagaya” and “Hashizumemon tsuzuki yagura” is illuminated at night and are now the must-visit spots together with “Ishikawa mon.” It was not aristocrats nor merchants that led the culture of this area; being one of the largest castle town in Japan, Kanazawa became the home to a gorgeous and flamboyant samurai culture and traditional arts and crafts that colored the life of a samurai.
Time-honored Kutani yaki and lacquer ware are typical representative of traditional arts and crafts of Kanazawa and Ishikawa Prefecture, but the area produces more than that. Cultivated through active cultural encouragement policy by Kaga clan, various kinds of arts and crafts are in place, such as Kaga Yuzen dying, Kanazawa gold/silver leaf, Kaga embroidery, Kanazawa Buddhist altars, Kaga paper lantern and Kaga Ivory. Based on Japanese chivalry, these versatile traditional crafts are all classy and elegant. Here, you can see the origin of the world-class culture of Japan.
Behind the development of these industrial arts in Kaga clan in Kanazawa, there was a struggling effort made by Maeda family to escape from the vigilant eyes of the Shogunate by showing them that the clan focuses on nurturing cultures rather than its force. On top of that, the long peaceful Edo period made it possible to lift up the samurai culture to a splendor.
“Kaga Mizuhiki”
Apart from the regular ceramics and weavings, mizuhiki is a rare kind of craft you can find. In Japan, when we want to send someone a present, we have the custom to wrap it in a paper, attach a noshi (ceremonial paper) and tie a special cord called mizuhiki, in order to show our gratitude or respect. In the days of Tokugawa Shogunate, it became popular among samurais to send gifts, which lead to the development of the beautiful mizuhiki decoration that has been handed down as a traditional art. In short, mizuhiki is craftwork that assume the shape of the expressions of gratitude in Japan. From the original flat form, this accessible craftwork later developed into a three dimensional mizuhiki-zaiku in Taisho era, and was raised up to an art piece as “Kaga Mizuhiki.”
The originator of Kaga Mizuhiki is “Tsuda-ryu Mizuhiki,” a style created by the founder Sokichi Tsuda in Meiji era that succeeded in creating a unique world of art through expressing good luck symbols such as cranes, turtles, pine, bamboo and plum in its distinctive designs. “Tsuda Mizuhiki Orikata,” the specialized shop of betrothal gifts in Kanazawa, is the only place in Japan where they skillfully make the mizuhiki works using the colorful mizuhiki made of cords wrapped in thin Japanese paper.
Other than the mizuhiki on congratulatory gift wrappers and betrothal gift ornaments, the shop exhibits artistic mizuhiki works such as those in the shape of unique dolls or Oriental Zodiacs. It is worthwhile seeing the craftsmanship of briskly tying up mizuhiki right on the spot as soon as they receive orders.
“Kanazawa Gold/Silver Leaf”
Another noteworthy traditional culture original to Kanazawa is “Kanazawa gold/silver leaf.” Gold leaf still has a short history as an industry, but it traces its roots to Azuchi Momoyama period (mid to late sixteenth century). In Meiji period, not only did the industry flourished having the history of being the castle town of Kaga clan, but it rapidly developed by Kanazawa having suitable climate for making gold leaves, high techniques, and good quality water. Nowadays, gold leaf have evolved into a gorgeous craftwork that Kanazawa boasts to be No. 1 in Japan in both techniques and production volume. Gold leaf artisans are a part of the indigenous industry representing Kanazawa; now, more than 99% of gold leaves and 100% of silver and brass leaves are made in Kanazawa.
The gold leaves used for lacquer ware and buddhist altars are those gold alloy beaten into extremely thin sheets up to a millionth of 1-2 mm which is too thin to be handled with a finger that you can even see through to the other side. Using its non-oxidizing and colorfast characteristics, silver and gold leaves are used on various arts and crafts including buddhist altars and ornaments, folding screens, and lacquer wares. These days, it is also used in a new way, for edible purposes, cosmetics and interior accessories.

Face blotting paper is also famous as a byproduct of gold leaves. The paper used in the in ingot beating process has been diverted to be used as blotting paper as it absorbed sebum. Being used for more than a decade, this hakuuchi paper (gold beating paper) is also known as a luxury item “Furuya-gami.” Also, many gold leaf shops are open to visitors to experience gold leaf pastings.
Discovering the Expert’s Techniques in the Sanctuary of Woodturning
Located in the southeast end of Ishikawa Prefecture, Kaga City is used to be a 100 thousand-koku producing castletown and a branch clan of Kaga-hyakumangoku castletown, Kanazawa. Kaga City is a town with onsen full of nature and traditional cultures though it is only 30 minutes away from Kanazawa. Yamanaka Onsen, in the mountainside of the city, is known for its lacquer ware as well as being the cradle of the pottery, Kutani-yaki. Remains of Ko-kutani kilns are seen in the upper stream of Taiseiji River that flows into the onsen area.
“Yamanaka Lacquer Ware”
The history of Yamanaka lacquer ware dates back to the late sixteenth century around Azuchi-momoyama period when they started to make lacquer wares in Yamanaka for the visitors to onsen. Then, in Edo period, high-leveled craft such as “painting” and “maki-e (gold or silver lacquer)” was introduced, which raised the lacquer ware to an industrial level.
There are four processes when making lacquer ware; making the wood base, priming, coating and lacquer painting, but it takes seven to eight years to acquire each of these skills. The characteristics of Yamanaka lacquer ware is the art of “woodturning.” Artisans turn the lathe and carve out the wood so thin that the carved wood almost looks transparent. Yamanaka lacquer ware is unique in that it has a process of continue applying and wiping off raw lacquer to show off the beauty of the grain and the high technique of the woodturning.
Pick up the finished product, and you will know that it is surprisingly light in weight. It is astonishing that the feudal lords used such delicate and expensive wooden lacquer ware for their daily use. However, after Yamanaka lacquer ware grew popular nationwide, Yamanaka started to produce synthetic resin lacquer ware in addition to those made out of plain wood. In “Rokuro no sato Kogei no Yakata” in Yamanaka Onsen, tourists can also experience the art of lacquer guided by skilled craftsmen (reservation required). By actually experiencing the traditional crafts, I am sure you will feel more familiar to the world of Japanese artisans.
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