TokyoTomo Travel Guide

Sanin offshore in the Japan Sea is blessed with seafood throughout the year, including “matsuba crabs” in winter and “white squid” and “Iwagaki (oyster)” in summer, but nothing is better than the spring “Mosa-ebi”(demersal shrimp called “Argis Lar” as scientific name) captured in Iwami-cho in Tottori Prefecture. Also try visiting the mountainside, and you will bump into an unexpected “B-class gourmet.” In this article, I would like to introduce you to a spring driving trip in springtime Sanin and a new sightseeing spot in Tottori prefecture.

Iwami-cho, Tottori Prefecture – “Mosa-ebi,” spring speciality tasted only in Iwami-cho

The representative winter seafood in Sanin region is matsuba crab (also known as snow crab). Iwami-cho in East Tottori is the very area that boasts the largest catches of matsuba crab in Japan, and crabs dominate the town every year from November to early March. But as spring comes, visitors to Iwami-cho is amused with the other flavorful seafood; that is, “Mosa-ebi.”

Mosa-ebi live at a depth of 250 m under the sea and it used to be captured unintentionally in a dragnet to capture matsuba-gani which was a hidden treat for fishermen. Until now, this shrimp is commonly used in various local dishes, but rarely offered in other markets as it is perishable. Being very sensitive to freshness, the pink body turns black after a day from landing and it cannot be preserved even in a freezer. Mosa-ebi is certainly a luxury foodstuff that can only be tasted in Iwami, and that is why it is called “a rare shrimp.”

Mosa-ebi is captured from September to May, and tastes the best in March to May when the temperature of the seawater is low, firming up the shrimp’s body that carries green eggs. Mosa-ebi has a more chewy texture and is tastier than deep-water shrimp. Sashimi is recommended to enjoy the flavor, but also tastes great when grilled with salt or steamed. Once you taste it, you will crave for more to enjoy the sweetness and mouth filling texture again.

Chizu-cho, Tottori Prefecture – Relax and enjoy walking in the historical post station in Sanin

Chizu-cho is a small town southeast of Tottori Prefecture, neighboring Okayama prefecture. Chizu-shuku, the center of the town, used to be the post station where the feudal lords of the Tottori clan stayed for their first night upon the state procession. As well as the remnants of Edo period, architectures of Meiji, Taisho and early Showa era can be seen here and there around the town. Not being too touristic, Chizu-cho is off the beaten path of Chugoku area where you can relax and stroll around. Within the prefecture, all routes in Tottori expressway is opened from this spring which makes Chizu only 30 minutes far from Tottori City by car.

The main attraction of the town is “Ishitani Residence,” a merchant’s house built in Edo period that stands along “Chizu-ourai,” a street with an old townscape. Building up gigantic beams of red pine tree, the blow-by above the earthen floor is as high as 13 m. In each rooms, you can enjoy the architectural beauty of the good old Japanese house including transoms rarely seen in Japan nowadays. “Itaibara village” is a rustic sightseeing spot in the suburbs where the scenery of the mountainous village in the mid 50s remain. Within the old village houses, you can also see a valuable house with a thatched roof built in the late 1890s. Do try “sakagura udon” made by the local Suwa Brewery if you ever happen to visit Chizu. This is a popular and special udon in a sake lees broth.

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Sakaiminato City in Tottori Prefecture is the largest town of fishery in Sanin Region. In winter, the city by the coast of Japan Sea becomes active catching crabs, and many tourists gather from all over Japan for fresh queen crabs. Sakaiminato Port is one of the city with such harbor, but there is another feature in this town, a sightseeing spot found nowhere else in Japan. That is, “Mizuki Shigeru Road.” Shigeru Mizuki is one of Japan’s prominent manga artist born here in Sakaiminato, an author of a comic and anime “Ge ge ge no Kitaro.” Hence, the master of comics played a part in the revitalization of the town through the development of this tourist spot, Mizuki Shigeru Road.

During wintertime, north wind mixed with snow blows and cold and gloomy weather stays in Sanin region, but this corner belongs to another world. Starting from JR Sakaiminato Station, Bronze statue of the characters of the cartoon stands along the main street of the 800 m long shopping street, and entertain the eyes of visitors, with “Kitaro,” the main character, “Medama-oyaji,” “Nezumi-otoko,” and “Neko-musume.” There were only 23 statues when it was launched in 1993, but increased to 134 in 2009, as well as rocketing up the number of tourists. Nowadays, the street is visited by over one million tourists a year, becoming a greater tourist attraction than Tottori sand dunes. The town of Sakaiminato is heating up even more, as next year, a TV drama “Ge ge ge no Nyobo” will be broadcasted on NHK, the national television.

Ge ge ge no Kitaro is a cartoon started from 1965, and at that time, it was serialized in a boy’s comic magazine together with “Astroboy” by Osamu Tezuka and “Osomatsu-kun” by Fujio Akatsuka. Now, the manga is popular among people in all ages from kids to adults. The main character, Kitaro was born to a human being and yokai (hobgoblin) and wipes out bad yokais using many kinds of sorcery. He is good at attacking the villains using his needle hairs and remote control clogs. After appearing on TV as an anime, Kitaro has turned into a hero of justice, but originally, Kitaro was a rather mean character, drawn in a dark and spooky touch, which was one of the appealing feature of Mizuki’s comics.

Mizuki’s world has been revived on Mizuki Shigeru Road, and along this popular venue, many interesting points can be found in addition to the statue of the characters. For example, tourists can’t help stopping in front of unique names of the shops and products that drag their attention from its playful mind. “Yokai Food Lab,” “Yokai Soap to Drive Away Evil Spirits,” “Yokai bun,” “Kitaro Tuna Ramen,” “Kitaro Clogs Amulet,” and so on, everything named after yokai. In the middle of the street, there are even “Yokai post” (you will get a Kitaro postmark if you post a letter from here) and “Yokai shrine” (you can draw a talisman). Time flies for both children and adults while they fully enjoy the attractions on the street.

Above all, Mizuki Shigeru Memorial Museum in Honmachi arcade is a must-visit site, as it is the highlight and the goal of Mizuki Shigeru Road. During the Golden Week and summer holidays when children are off from school, there will be a queue in front of the museum with tourists with their kids. The museum was opened celebrating 81st birthday of Mr. Mizuki, who is a yokai researcher as well as cartoonist, and exhibits his office　and many of his original drawings, art piece, and collections. There are also yokai figurines and diorama, also a commentary on yokai by visual aids. It is worthwhile seeing the knacky presentations drawing you into the world of yokai.

It would also be interesting to participate in “Yokai Stamp Rally” to have more fun in the road walking. In this game, you need to buy “Yokai guidebook” (100 yen) at the shopping arcade, and collect Yokai Stamp in shops along the road (37 places in total). There will be giveaways after you get 20 or more stamps, and you will get a finisher’s certificate if you collect all the stamps. Yokai Guide Book is a hidden best seller selling over 100 thousand copies. Beginners an also enjoy the book as it has an easy description of Mizuki’s yokai world that even fascinates the adults. If you are not confident in walking, you can hop onto “yokai rickshaw” and tour around the road, or enjoy a slow carefree ride around the town with “yokai rent-a-cycle.” Yokai rickshaw will double your pleasure from the friendly rickshaw driver’s explanation about the yokai bronze statue.

Yonago is the nearest airport if you are taking a flight to visit Sakaiminato. JR trains and buses are available from the airport. Sakaiminato can be accessed by car from Yonago, but is not advisable to do so as there are few car park around the city. If you are taking a train from Yonago, there is a recommended train route called Sakai Line, or “Kitaro Train” as a nickname, connecting JR Yonago and Sakaiminato Station. Four kinds of designed trains operate in rotation, with drawings of Kitaro, Nezumi-otoko, Neko-musume. Along Sakai Line, each stops has nicknames from yokai, and the shops in the station building are all designed in Kitaro colors.

Sakaiminato Information Office for Tourists

Photo courtesy by Tohru Sasaki

Source: Travel Vision

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